Lightning is by far one of the hardest weather phenomena to photograph. To capture this beast requires being at the right place at the right time with the right equipment; and a boatload of luck. But even a small amount of knowledge can significantly increase your chances of capturing lightning. I hope to do just that, using skills that I have acquired through years of chasing and capturing lightning.

Equipment

Probably the most daunting task faced by anyone new to the field of lightning photography is deciding on what equipment is right for them. “Should I use a film or digital camera? What lenses do I need? What should the camera be able to do?” The list goes on and on. First, there is no one camera that you must have to take lightning photos. There are hundreds of consumer cameras available on the market capable of capturing lightning. A key feature that your camera should have is the ability to manually set the shutter speed, aperture and film speed. Here are my quick definitions of these terms; if you desire to know more about them there are plenty of photo web sites and books available that covers these topics in great detail.

Shutter Speed: A measure of how long the shutter of the camera is open to expose the film or digital sensor to light. Aperture: Refers to a set of rings inside the lens that control the amount of light hitting the film/digital sensor. Also known at f/stop; the higher f/stop numbers (f/22) mean less light is reaching the film while lower f/stop numbers (f/2.8) mean more light is reaching the film. Film Speed: A measure of how sensitive the film, or digital sensor, is to light. The ISO (film speed) number is directly proportional to the film’s sensitivity to light (higher number = more sensitive).

The next choice is whether to use a film or digital based camera. They both have their pros and cons:

Film

Pros: Despite the overwhelming popularity of digital cameras today, there are still a few benefits to this dying medium. While you would need a 35mm SLR (single lens reflex) film camera to take lightning photos (as opposed the “box” cameras), the price of a decent SLR is roughly the same as an advanced point-and-shoot digital camera. SLRs also feature a threaded hole in the shutter button that accommodates a cable release (see below for more details). Film SLRs allow the photographer to hold the shutter of the camera open indefinitely while the maximum shutter time for an affordable DSLR is 8 minutes. Also, the resolution (enlargement capabilities) of a $2 roll of film is equivalent to an $800 10 MegaPixel digital camera.

Cons: In today’s digital age, film negatives are becoming increasingly harder to work with. To put a film based photo on your photo blog or web site you must first develop the film and scan each individual photo into your computer. This becomes quite a hassle very quickly. Also, the cost of purchasing and developing film, while at first may seem small, adds up very quickly. In 2003, the last full year I used a film camera, I used 50 rolls of film at a cost of $7.00 per roll in purchasing and developing costs. The $350.00 I spent could easily buy a decent digital camera. These two factors were the reasons why I finally retired my film SLR camera in the summer of 2004.

Digital

Pros: Digital’s obvious advantage to film is its simplicity. One can view photos instantly, adjusting and retaking the photo if need be, and there are no costs involved in purchasing or developing film. As mentioned earlier, digital photos can be instantly transferred to a computer for editing or uploading to a web site. Prices continue to drop for models that are capable of taking lightning photos.

Cons: Digital technology is still in its infancy, and while digital cameras meet the needs of everyday photographers, they are still slightly below par for lightning photos. Features such as a cable release thread and an infinite shutter speed option are not available on affordable DSLR cameras, but it is only a matter of time before these features become commonplace. The photo processing time when taking longer exposures can also be a hassle. For example, a 15 second exposure on a digital camera actually lasts 30 seconds due to the camera having to process the image once it is taken.

Other essential items needed for a successful lightning chase include a tripod to steady the camera for the long exposure, a water resistant bag to protect your equipment, and a cable release if your camera has a threaded hole in its shutter button (mainly on SLR film cameras). If you are shooting with a digital camera, try using a remote control.

Locating Lightning

When on the prowl for a good lightning storm, the key thing to look for is the height of the cumulonimbus clouds. The chances of lightning increase dramatically as the cloud reaches higher into the sky. Lightning is in part caused by ice crystals colliding inside the cloud, and this can only happen if the cloud grows above the freezing layer in the atmosphere. I won’t go into the physics behind it :-)

Once you’ve reached the storm, start looking for where the system is producing lightning. More often than not there are a few concentrated areas where lightning is being produced, but be aware that lightning can drop anywhere, anytime. These spots are always on the move, and can easily form and dissipate in a matter of minutes. This means you will be moving around quite a bit to accommodate the movement and development of these hot spots.

Photographing Lightning

Once you’ve located the right storm, it is time to set your gear up. Always remember to exercise caution while photographing lightning. Lightning is not the only weapon in a storm's arsenal; hail. high winds, flash flooding, and tornadoes pose other grave threats to people in their path. Make sure that you have an escape plan in case the storm becomes unsafe (now, what "unsafe" means is a whole different discussion--use your best judgment and air on the side of safety). Other problems that may arise include wild animals, nighttime ground hazards (more than once I've found hidden holes in the ground while walking out in a night-shrouded field), and making sure that you are not trespassing on private property. The best way to avoid these problems is to stay near a road, but then you'll have to deal with traffic. Pick your poison.

After finding a safe spot, set up your gear and find the lightning sweet spot. Now for the tricky part, deciding what combination of shutter speed, aperture, and film speed to use. Unfortunately, there is no magic combination. You the photographer must decide based on the ambient lighting conditions. "Is there sunlight/moonlight present? City lights? How far away is the lightning?" All of these must be taken into consideration when determining the combination. Since a higher film speed results in a grainier photo, it is best to default to a low film speed (ISO 50-100). Now for the aperture and shutter speed.

When I'm out on lightning chases, I've usually found myself in one of two situations. Either I'm out in the middle of the night away from any lights or I'm working with the opposite. Lightless photography is much easier to deal with. When out in the field in the dark of night with a distant storm, I usually set my aperture at f/3.5 and leave the shutter open for several flashes. As the storm gets closer I will increase the f/stop (letting in less light). The photo on the right (June 19, 2002) was shot with an aperture of f/16, a shutter speed of 30 seconds, and with ISO 400 film (note the higher aperture due to a more sensitive film).

Now for situations involving external light sources. Having a digital camera comes in handy in these situations, since you can take a photo and tweak your camera settings based on how the test photo turns out. I don't really have a procedure for these conditions, as I have never used the same settings twice. Your best bet is to set the aperture around f/5 and find the shutter speed that correctly exposes the photo. White balance might become an issue--usually I will set my white balance to either daylight (results in purple lightning) or tungsten (blue lightning). Then fire away. If you don't have a digital camera, this is very hard. I only captured one daylight lightning bolt with my film SLR in the four years I used it (and it was slightly overexposed). Setting the digital camera into burst mode and holding down the shutter button has proven to work well for me. The photo on the right (May 7, 2006) was shot with a shutter speed of 1/2 a second, an aperture of f/3.5, an ISO 100 film speed, and a daylight white balance.

Well, that about covers it. The best way to get good at photographing lightning is to experiment with different apertures, shutter speeds, and even different white balances/filters. Every situation is different, so be ready for anything! If you have any questions, feel free to shoot me an email. Good luck and happy chasing!!